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Sunday, July 26, 2026

I Am From Bosnia, Take Me to America

 The article "I Am From Bosnia, Take Me to America: Notes on the Western Balkans" was published by NOTCOMPETING on July 20, 2026. It chronicles a three-week journey through Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, and Albania, a region characterized by competing international influences via investment, migration, and real estate.

Minimum Viable History

After World War II, the region was united under Yugoslavia, comprising Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia (with Kosovo), Montenegro, and North Macedonia. National identities were primarily defined by religion: Slovenes and Croats were mostly Catholic, Serbs and Montenegrins mostly Orthodox, and Bosniaks Muslim. Following the fall of communism in 1991, the federation broke apart through a series of wars. While Slovenia gained independence quickly, the conflicts in Croatia and Bosnia were more protracted, with the Yugoslav army—dominated by Serbs—aiming to create a "Greater Serbia".

The 1995 Dayton Accords ended the fighting in Bosnia but divided the country, leaving roughly half as Republika Srpska, a Serb ethnostate that remains largely isolated from the rest of the nation. The final violent split occurred in 1999 in Kosovo, leading to NATO bombing and Kosovo's unilateral independence in 2008. Since then, Slovenia and Croatia have joined the EU and prospered, while Serbia has aligned more with Russia and Bosnia remains dysfunctional.

Bosnia

Bosnia is the most ethnically diverse of the former republics. During the author's visit, the 15-year-old song "I am from Bosnia, take me to America" saw a resurgence. While the U.S. is viewed as a symbol of wealth, there is resentment regarding the Dayton Accords, which established a tripartite government that many locals blame for state corruption and stagnation. In Sarajevo, the author observed the American Corner in the library and noted that while "heavy-handed" book displays do little, exchange programs (defunded in 2025) successfully generated pro-American sentiment.

The author highlighted the following observations in Bosnia:

  • Migration: Young Bosniaks, including engineering and CS students, often plan to migrate to Germany or Dubai for better opportunities.
  • Tourism: A wave of Arab and Turkish tourism in Sarajevo has brought investment but also sparked backlash regarding tourists seeking "white muslim wives".
  • Ethnic Segregation: The city of Mostar remains deeply segregated. In 1993, Croatian militia destroyed the historic 16th-century bridge, and the Croatian side now displays militia emblems and a large cross on the ridge where artillery was once placed.
  • Yugoslavia Nostalgia: Older generations often view the Yugoslav era as superior, citing higher rates of interethnic marriage, though studies suggest these claims may be exaggerated.

Serbia

Belgrade is described as the only "modern-looking global city" in the region. Serbia benefits from Chinese, Russian, and Turkish capital. Following the 2022 influx of Russians, some locals have reportedly refused to speak Russian, preferring English. Chinese influence is prominent, including a cultural center and hotel built on the site of the U.S. embassy bombed in 1999.

The Serbian rail network is noted for its "Chinese Train Station Design Language," but it has suffered from tragedy. In 2024, an awning collapse at the Novi Sad station killed 16 people, sparking massive anti-government protests.

Montenegro and Albania

Montenegro is on track to join the EU in two years and has already adopted the Euro. The capital, Podgorica, is described as boring but possessing good urbanism. The author noted a prevalence of cheap Chinese consumer goods and a lack of functioning railway crossing gates, leading to common collisions.

Albania is characterized by a dual currency regime (Lek and Euro) and a complete lack of nostalgia for its communist past, which was uniquely isolated. In Tirana, the "attract-tourists plan" involves building "super-weird skyscrapers," such as one shaped like the head of national hero Skanderbeg. The author also witnessed the "Flamingo Revolution" protests, which were sparked by a luxury development deal involving Jared Kushner and Ivanka Trump.

Conclusion

The author concludes that the Balkans, despite recent ethnic violence and high gun ownership, is one of the safest regions for walking. However, regional transit is unreliable, and digital tools like Google Maps are often inaccurate regarding local schedules and station closures. Ultimately, for many young people in the region, the primary "democratic" goal of EU accession is the ability to leave for higher-income countries.

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